Lighting Design

ATX-LED solutions are ideal for new home construction (single-family and multi-family), hospitality, restaurants and other locations.  

In these locations, lighting designers have developed standards for the amount of light per square foot.  When you're designing a system, it's important to choose the right fixtures to provide an adequate amount of light.

Because the LED fixtures we sell have no hot-spots and are very low glare, you may be able to use less than standard guidelines.  

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Lumens per Square Foot

The figures below are based on industry standards.  To find out how many total lumens you need, multiply the number of square feet in a room by the numbers below.

You can reach the total number of lumens with multiple lights.  

  • Living room: 10–20 lumens per square foot

  • Dining room: 30–40 lumens per square foot

  • Bedroom: 10–20 lumens per square foot

  • Bathroom: 70–80 lumens per square foot

  • Hallways: 5–10 lumens per square foot

  • Kitchen (general lighting): 30–40 lumens per square foot

  • Kitchen (task areas): 70–80 lumens per square foot

  • Laundry room: 70–80 lumens per square foot.

Example Design Walk-through

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Example Design Walk-through

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

If your builder has drawings from an architect or electrician, the plans are likely designed around a 120V lighting system.


The first goal is to overlay a DC lighting system onto your drawings.  Our goal is to create a 48V DC solution in place of the 120V solution.  


This means: 

  1. Planning lights and fans

  2. Planning the LED driver solution based on the amount of watts of the required lights

  3. Planning the dimmers to use for each load


We start with this electrical plan which was designed for 120VAC.

Wafer Lights

The 4" wafer downlight is the go-to place to start with your lighting.  

The 4" LED wafer is roughly the diameter of the standard BR30 bulb that is used in traditional "can lighting".  It produces 550 lumens and can be used as a direct replacement for can lights in architectural plans.

The ATX-LED DR2 Smart LED Dimmer can drive up to 48V of LEDs. This means that each channel can drive up to two 4” 6W LED Wafers in series without addition hardware. Controlling 5,6 or 8 of these lights on a single DR2 requires an ATX-LED Current DoublerControlling more than eight can be done but requires additional hardware. 

Most of the rooms have only four of the 4" LED wafers so only one DR2 switch is needed to control the room by placing a string of two on each channel. The kitchen however has five lights. In this case, we use a ATX-LED constant current doubler putting four on one channel and one on the other.


If more lighting is needed than the 4" wafer can supply, there is a larger 6" wafer available. This wafer has a larger forward voltage and thus only one light can run on a channel without additional hardware. With a Current Doubler, four 6" wafers can be run off of one DR2 switch.

In this phase, we also elected to include the DC exhaust fans. The fan we suggest is the SLM70. A few small modifications are required and instructions can be found on our website. The controller for the fans is the same DR2 switch used for the lights.  The switch automatically detects if a fan is connected to either channel. The other channel can still be used to control lights as normal. 

Wiring for these cases and more can be found in the Installation Guide.

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Here's a typical design flow to architect your DC LED lighting solution 

Spotlights and Security Lights

The spotlights provide a more direct light and work well for accent or directed lighting. Using a DR2 switch, spotlights can run up to four in series per channel with no additional hardware. The eight spotlights in the living room are all run off of one DR2 switch.

For the spotlights in the bedroom, we suggested adding two 3-way switches by the master bed on each side so that the reading lights can be turned off from the bed with a switch. Wiring for 3-way switches can be found in the 3-way wiring guide.

ATX-LED also works with LED security lights. The usage of these lights depends on the fixtures used. Often times, a DR2 switch can power the light directly but a separate LED driver might be needed.

Rope lights,

Under-counter lights and garage lights

If the light system you have designed is too high a voltage or too much wattage for a single DR2 switch, there are other control options. The first is using a separate driver for the lights like we have done with the rope lights.

Our specified rope light is neon style fully dimmable 24V, 1.5W per foot.  For each of these sections of LED rope light, we are going to specify a 120VAC input, 24V DC output controlled LED driver with 100W output.  We use the Meanwell ELG-100-24B. And for each of these, we control them with the ATX-LED 0-10V Smart Dimmer using the DA0-10V control wire from the Dimmer to the Meanwell LED driver. These larger drivers are housed in the control panel to enable easy access to 120VAC. The output of the driver should go to the rope light directly using 16/4 wire.

For driving a large number of wafer lights, it is easier to use a separate drive for each light like we have done in the garage.  We will use a Meanwell LDD-350 LED driver to drive each of the lights and an ATX-LED 0-10V smart dimmer to control them. The power for the drivers will come from the main panel and the control line will come from the switch. Because there are close to 100 watts for lighting we will need to use 16/4 wire to run the garage lights.

The other option for large rooms is using a virtual three way switch. This uses multiple DR2 switches to drive different sets of lights but programmatically connects them all together into one group. This situation is described in the 3-way switching guide.

Home Run Plan

Home runs first.

The home run is the wire that goes from the wiring panel to a switch box. These are separate from the home runs to the 120VAC panel. There should not be any 120VAC wires running to the low voltage wiring panel.  The ATX-LED solution allows up to 96W per home run which complies with NEC 725/411.  A home run is always a 16/4 stranded and a CAT5. The 16/4 carries power to the switches and the CAT5 connects the switches to the DALI data bus and allows 3-way control of lights. 

In our example diagram, we've designed a house with approximately 800W of lighting.  We've broken the house into 9 sections.  Zones 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 and 8 have less than 96 Watts each.  Zones 2, 4 and 7 are rope lighting which is being driven by a Meanwell ELG driver located in the structured wiring panel and zone 9 has over 100W. Because of this, we are running two home runs to that zone.  

So, our total number of home runs is 10.  We use a calculation of 50' of wire per Home Run.  This is suitable for a 3000 s.f. house.  If your house is much larger or smaller, you can adjust this figure.  It is also a good idea to give yourself plenty of extra wire so for this job we need 1000' of 16/4 wire and 1000' of Cat 5.

Home Run Daisy Chain Plan

Connect multiple switch boxes together

Each switch that needs to be smart should be connected into the wiring panel through a home run but you do not need a home run for every switch. Switches should be daisy changed together to reduce the wiring needed. This diagram is an example of a home run with five switch boxes connected together in a daisy chain fashion. Slave 3-way switches do not need the home run daisy chain as they are wired with CAT5 only.

Wire each Home Run zone in the same way from one switch box to the next.  Each daisy chain continues to use a 16/4 and CAT5.

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